Wednesday, 10 November 1999

Day 1 – Kathmandu to Besi Sahar (760m)

Toby Diary

Awoke at 5am after an evening wandering around Durbar Square and Freak Street soaking in the atmosphere. We had been a bit too tired to take it all in but, as the Diwali Festival was reaching its height, there was plenty going on. Although the usual trinket half of the market place was quiet the temples themselves were busy, there were hordes of people selling produce and boys letting off fire crackers. The whole city was plunged into a candle lit glow at 7pm – apparently deliberately – increasing the sense of having arrived in a very foreign place for us. We ate in the Oasis restaurant on Freak Street. To and from our hotel (Hotel Sayapalerid) in mad rickshaws through Thamel much to the amusement of all concerned. Back to the hotel through Thamel; all bits I recognised from last year. Then organising bags and to bed. 


Early start as picked up by Kami at hotel before we are taken to the bus.  The trip to Dumre is paid for but we must pay extra to get up to Besi Sahar.  As the tourist bus is going all the way up it is R200 per head.  It would have been less on a local bus but given the road to Besi Sahar this was rupees well spent.  Our guide Tensi and partner Marhis joined us for the whole bus ride and then helped hand carry our bags up to the hotel.  Worried at first that our big bag may be a bit much for little Marhis but he seems unperturbed and Tensi says this is fine.  Spend the evening eating Dahl Bhat, Tibetena bread and rice pancakes – very full so go for a walk to see all the street singing and dancing  going on for the extended Diwali celebrations.  Sleep soundly despite the noise of the bugle playing that echoes around town.

Truck Stop Dumre

Hotel Besi Sahar



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Post Script

We are flying back to England and it is night.   It is only two days after the night in Dhampus where I saw nothing but a candle flickering ...