Friday, 12 November 1999

Day 3 – Ngadi (930m) to Jagat (1310m) - 13km

Toby Diary

Overslept this morning so dashed down for a bowl of apple muesli and hot chocolate.

All packed up and ready for the off at 7.45 and almost immediately into climb up to Baundanda which sits on a high saddle. Jules clearly better as races off up the hill while Thorpey taking things gingerly with his ankle. Another police check point here and then down to traverse the side of the ever narrowing canyon. One particularly precarious pole bridge with waterfalls and a huge rock which I sat on to wait for the two Marks while Jules surges on ahead. Two cute but snotty nosed kids (sister and brother?) made a good photo opportunity while I waited to see Les Garcons cross the bridge. More climbing until we got up to Garan Phant (not on the map by that name but just before big suspension bridge over to Sange).




Stopped in Garan Phant for a bowl of soup and chilling for an hour. Carried on past Sange, up long hard slope in very hot conditions, to precarious path hewn out of rock leading to village of Jagat to stay in Manasul Lodge. Jules and I decided to investigate signs to hot spring and walked off with Marhis. Difficult to find springs as one has to go right down to the riverside. Still not obvious when you got there but when found it is about the size of a bath tub and ALMOST too hot to get in. Smelt a bit of the sea due to sulphur content but extremely pleasant. Had tried to wash in the river – a rushing torrent of glacial water - but it was a bit nippy. Also managed to wash some clothes in the river. Long haul back up the valley side to get to the lodge then very knackered so quick nap before joining one and all for milk tea and large dinner with tuna and vegetable momo and some excellent Dhal Baht. Landlord tells us that there will be children dancing in the village again tonight although the main thing today was gambling. He was fairly blasé about the fact that he had lost R2000 today! Stool-o-centric conversations as Mark strains away and Jules farts nervously. The dancing this evening turns out to be a bit of a flop as our landlord, the organiser, had relied on his old tape machine which is beyond his ability to repair. The rest of the village remained intent on its gambling so to bed.

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Post Script

We are flying back to England and it is night.   It is only two days after the night in Dhampus where I saw nothing but a candle flickering ...